Our last night at Tani House was dramatic with fearsome lightning and thunder that shook the house right overhead keeping Fiona awake.

This morning the sky was overcast and rain still threatened - almost as though Kansai was weeping for our departure. As I write this we're just coming in to Okayama, but we won't reach Nagasaki for another five and a half hours.

Later. We're in Hakata and it's pissing down. It's almost 3pm which means we still have about fifteen minutes to wait for our train on to Nagasaki.

Later still (written on the ninth in fact). We arrive in Nagasaki in the rain. It hasn't let up all day and we're feeling a little miserable because of it. As we got off the tram at Shian-Bashi, we must have looked slightly lost since a nice young pharmacist from Australia showed us where our hotel was, through what he called the "pink light" district of Matsuyama Kooen. The girls were very pretty, but had the same dispassionate middle-distance stare that marks out working girls the world over. When we got to our hotel - the Nishiki-soo - we discover that the "special" room we'd booked is actually the owner's daughter's whole flat! As such, it has its own bathroom, kitchen, TV, and even a piano. After a swift shower, we headed back out in time to catch a Dutch merchantman being wheeled through the streets accompanied by music and chanting. We went to a yaki niku restaurant, going by the unlikely name of Robin Hood, which had been recommended by our Oz JET friend. It was a tad confusing at first, and our shock-headed waiter's English was nearly as bad as our Japanese, but we muddled through and the food was great. After the meal we retired to our incomprensible TV and beds...